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CLEANING RUST OFF A GUN. CLEANING RUST OFF


Cleaning Rust Off A Gun. Cleaning Granite Countertop



Cleaning Rust Off A Gun





cleaning rust off a gun






    cleaning
  • Make (something or someone) free of dirt, marks, or mess, esp. by washing, wiping, or brushing

  • (clean) free from dirt or impurities; or having clean habits; "children with clean shining faces"; "clean white shirts"; "clean dishes"; "a spotlessly clean house"; "cats are clean animals"

  • the act of making something clean; "he gave his shoes a good cleaning"

  • make clean by removing dirt, filth, or unwanted substances from; "Clean the stove!"; "The dentist cleaned my teeth"

  • Remove the innards of (fish or poultry) prior to cooking





    rust
  • A state of deterioration or disrepair resulting from neglect or lack of use

  • A fungal disease of plants that results in reddish or brownish patches

  • A reddish- or yellowish-brown flaky coating of iron oxide that is formed on iron or steel by oxidation, esp. in the presence of moisture

  • of the brown color of rust

  • corrode: become destroyed by water, air, or a corrosive such as an acid; "The metal corroded"; "The pipes rusted"

  • a red or brown oxide coating on iron or steel caused by the action of oxygen and moisture





    gun
  • A device for discharging something (e.g., insecticide, grease, or electrons) in a required direction

  • A weapon incorporating a metal tube from which bullets, shells, or other missiles are propelled by explosive force, typically making a characteristic loud, sharp noise

  • A gunman

  • a weapon that discharges a missile at high velocity (especially from a metal tube or barrel)

  • shoot with a gun

  • artillery: large but transportable armament











CaenEcho: Kill Kevin




CaenEcho: Kill Kevin





Well, I haven't been doing much on the site lately, and just barely remembered this mission (I guess I'm just sort of exhausted trying to keep up with all the missions and stuff). Anyway, here goes:

Note: This description is very graphic; make sure you are in an appropriate environment before viewing:Note

In the waiting room, kevin is nowhere to be seen.
"Kevin, get your ugely hide out here this instant"
A slight movement is seen in the corner.
The camera pans and we see Kevin taking a monstrous dump behind the plant.
He is grinning ear to ear and cackling with glee.
"Kevin, what the hell are you doing!? *sigh* "get to door 666, double time!"
Kevin hesitates, then drags his feet over to the door. He opens it and slides through.
On the other side is a plain, cold room made of rough stone. Around the room are an efficient number of various torture devices and instruments. I am standing next to the nearest one wearing a malevolent smile. He shudders and cowers before me as the door slams shut behind him.
"Hello, Kevin."
Kevin....startstomakearunforit! (meant to convey speed)
I grab him by the shoulders and drag him to the device, a large wheel with many bars and strapping implements. I fix him in the correct position, and push on the wheel. As the wheel begins to turn, it applies steady pressure against kevin's limbs, pressing them up against several bars laid lengthwise across the wheel which resist the movement. As I strain harder and harder, Kevin screams in pain as his limbs are crushed in the contraption. His arms give first with a sickening, fingers down a chalkboard crack. Shattered bone fragments rip through his flesh and blood spurts out. He shrieks in agony! His legs tremble, then buckle and cave in, snapping his femurs in two. As I remove his limp, mangled form from the wheel, he collapses in a heap shuddering and whimpering. I deliver an intense kick to his head, knocking him clean out.

When he wakes up, he is shackled to the wall. I am am preparing a skinning knife. I walk towards him and rip into the flesh below his shoulder. Through screams and wails, I work, scraping my serrated, partially rusted blade through his skin. The sound is like that of ripping canvas, and it feels like I am cutting through a thick layer of hardened gelatin. I finish and inspect my work: I have removed the entire section of skin from his front abdomen area, from his neck down to his waist, laying open his guts. I carefully remove him from the wall and take him over to a table. I set him down and carefully spread him out and chain him down. A scalpel, vise, drill, and hack saw are waiting on another table close by. I take the vise and and apply it to his genitals. I then take the scalpel and castrate him. Removing the bloodied objects, I place them in the poor goblin's mouth and force him to swallow them, nearly choking him to death. He vomits several times, and after he is done, I continue. I take the saw and start to amputate his legs. He hoarsly screams for a quick death. The saw easily cuts through the fleshy pulp of his already ripped apart legs. The remains I toss into a bucket. Next, I take the drill and vigorously twist it to tear my way through his teeth. Blood pours out of his mouth and I can just barely discern his muffled screams. After I violently mutilate his mouth and face, I take a blazing fire poker from a nearby forge and forcefully jam it into each of his eyes. In quick succesion, I give his body a thorough coating of oil, grab his intestines and wrap them tightly about his throat (but not tight enough to kill him, just enough to make him panic and fight for every last breath), and place his body over the open ground. I throw several more jars of oil and various other flammable material onto the ground around him. Finally, I take a scalding lump of sub-molten led and place it into Kevin's chest cavity and cover it with his internal organs. I then proceed to dump copious amounts of flaming metal and wood onto the area, and it explodes into flame, creating a raging inferno that engulfs everything around it. I burst into roaring laughter as I watch from a far. Kevin then does something that would surprise even the devil; he crawls his way to a spiked wall and thrusts his head onto a spike, pithing him through and ending his suffering. Afterwards, I freeze the remains of his body, then use his club to smash it into tiny shards of ice which I use to cool my celebratory gin & tonic.

The camera shifts and the numbers shuffle like normal as the end music plays.


The next episode, Kevin does not resist. He stands straight in the open, waiting to be called. When he enters the door, he pulls out a .357 magnum and empties its contents into sareth. Kevin makes a run for it, and manages to escape to freedom! But in his rejoicing, he gets to excited and trips over a root. As he falls his life flashes before hi











So much for clear coat!




So much for clear coat!





This is my VO Polyvalent frame, which I labored over - stripping, gun blue, clear powder coat. A couple wintery commutes and some invasive rust set in. The situation went from on small spot of rust to what you see here in a week, two tops.

The frame is currently being cleaned up and is getting a fresh coat of British Racing Green. Pick it up tonight! It's going to be reborn as a Sturmey Archer 5-speed porter.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update: Oct. 16, 2011
I gave this advice to a Flickr user who asked about using Gun Blue on a bike frame. I thought it might be helpful to others considering this finish:

I think gun bluing if a great way to approach frame finishing, but in my particular case things worked out poorly. I used a newbie powder coater who offered me a good price to apply the clear. I think he made a bad choice on which powder to use--like he went with one that is normally a top coat and is insufficiently tough enough to be a single coat. Long story short I got rust ... Bad. After commuting in snowy conditions a couple times the salt slag somehow got under the coat and the rust spread around the BB like a disease.

Now I'm having the frame recoated in a solid color by a good and recommended coater. He told me that the rust wasn't a product of the bluing -- it should have worked well if the original coater had done a better job.

As for bluing tips:
I was bluing a completely stripped frame that was cleaned up with a fine rotary wire brush drill attachment. I went over the frame with a very hi grit sandpaper -- like 800 -- and steel wool.

When applying the blueing agent, work from the bottom up - seems counter intuitive but this minimizes the effect of drips. If drips run down the raw unfinished steel they will appear darker when you hit up that section with its own layer of blue. If your working from the bottom up the drips only hit finished areas. Be quick with a rag to wipe them up and the won't leave a mark.

Do one full tube at a time -- that's a larger area than the Bluing box recommends but just work quickly to get it on evenly as fast as possible. Overlap can leave uneven darkness, so you don't want to have two work sections joining mid-tube. Wipe the blue on in long tube length swipes that end at the welds or lugs. Might consider using something larger than the swab they provide to get it on faster. A small sponge maybe.

Also, that stuff works fast so you can pretty much start cleaning it from the first area you swiped as soon as you finish the last swipe. Better to keep it light and hit it up again than let it sit and get irrevocably dark.

Note to anyone considering applying clear powder coating to a bike frame, gun blued or not: The heat of powder coating darkens raw steel. With one bike I coated clear, I hoped to preserve to look of cold raw steel, but it yellowed when it was coated... it didn't look bad--sort of made it look brassy-- but it's safe to say that you shouldn't expect the clear-coated frame to look exactly the same as id did pre-coating. In the case of this frame, the blue got darker too. Mine even took on a reddish hue behind the blue that was unexpected but, in a way, richer and awesome. Because of this darkening, you might want to leave it a little lighter than you want the finished frame to be. That will also help the texture of thebrushed steel to come through. Too dark and it will just look black after coating.

Last, keep it in a dry area until you are ready to coat. Bluing doesn't do much to ward off rust, and if it does rust you will be in a jam because you can't knock back the rust without removing the finish. I experimented with adding gun oil to keep the frame rust free until I got it to the coater. I think this was a mistake because the oil is the enemy of powder coating. It had to be fired off before the frame could be coated - this can change the tint. And it may have been remnant oil creating voids between the coating and tubing that led to my rust down the line. Regardless, your coater should treat the frame with an astringent to get all hand oils off the frame prior to coating.

Despite the failure of this frame I will definitely try this on future frames. When done well, it can be awesome. Next time I'm just going to be very upfront with the coater that I want a bombproof clear - possibly too coats if that can be done without too much discoloration.










cleaning rust off a gun







See also:

clean stainless steel silverware

how to clean a clogged shower head

jobs for cleaning houses

exceptional house cleaning

how to clean dirty feet

how to clean a dry erase eraser

bathroom cleaning brush

laminated floors cleaning



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